Carpets (aka: Something about Afghanistan)

I know it seems like all we do is travel. If I'm not writing or posting photos of exotic vacations, it's of destinations in Afghanistan. Contrary to popular belief, we spend most of our time here in Kabul. Our compound is like an all-inclusive resort (gyms! a pool! a cafeteria!) or a medium-security prison...depending on how you look at it (gyms=packed, pool=creepy and foggy with a weird cover, cafeteria=don't even get me started). Mostly though, we spend our time split between the office and bed. The work never. goes. away.

Going to local bazaars and shopping is a favorite past time in our rare free time. Many colleagues stacks of carpets that they plan to take back to their homes in the U.S. Since we're saving up for a down payment, we're not quite as spendy but have managed to pick up some cool stuff along the way. Today, we went WILD and bought two whole carpets.


Above is a close-up of our Baluchi refugee carpet and the other below is a Maliki rug. You can google them if you want more info but they're both of good quality (the Baluchi practically glitters gold in the sunlight, it's gorgeous) and we mostly just loved the designs.

And a closer-up
Still on our 'to-buy' list are two really big carpets. One that will fit under our dining room table - we're hoping to find the perfect carpet in the traditional Afghan red design, maybe something along these lines. Second would be a living room sized Choubi rug. They're not as fancy as some other ones (we saw a gorgeous silk Herati carpet for nearly $4000 today!) but they're cozy and functional for our mobile life with a yellow lab and hopefully a growing family.

On the non-carpet end, we hope to get a painted cabinet but are waiting to see how our trunk goes. Mark got us an amazing deal on a wooden carved trunk and we'd love to buy a painted cabinet from the same vendor...but we're waiting to see if the wood warps. If we get the go-ahead, it'll be towards the end of our tour. Another item would be a Russian samovar. I don't know why I'm so obsessed with these things but for some reason, I always want one when I see it. The vendor today quoted me $120 but asked me for MY price as I walked away. I didn't seal the deal today but maybe in the coming weeks (my birthday next month?)


(Yes, I know these aren't Samovars but it's a photo from the same vendor and they still look pretty.)

Sydney Deliciousness

Um, not much to say here. Just some drool-worthy memories of food in Oz. Coming from Afghanistan where the DFac (dining facility) is affectionately known as the DCrap and the only fish we get has been flown for thousands of miles and cooked into oblivian, we were just excited at the mere thought of fresh fruits and veggies. Arugala. Heirloom tomatos. Oysters. Salmon. Sushi. I know I sound like one of the "blue staters" that Fox News loves to make fun of but seriously, I don't think I'll ever want an onion ring again after smelling them daily for this whole year.


While we were all about fish most of the time, all steak cravings (medium for me, medium-rare for him) were met as well. Good thing since I've been eating baked pollack since then. Lots of yummy oysters with all kinds of sides but my favorite was with simple squeezed lemon. Incidentally, neither Mark nor I had ever even tasted an oyster until our Edinburgh trip with friends in 2009. Thanks to our friends, we now have a new favorite food! The Sydney Fish Market (where all of Sydney goes during the holidays to get their Christmas seafood) was extraordinary. Besides having lots of yummy food to look at, there were some kitchen stores and I was able to get a few things that I've really been needing.


Lastly, we were lucky enough to be in Sydney for the annual Crave food festival. While there were a lot of cool components to the festival, we really didn't have enough time to research and take part in all the events we would've wanted to. One event that was easy to attend was the Singapore-style Night Noodle Market in Hyde Park. The beer garden served a variety of Aussie ales and there were about 50 stands sponsored by local Asian restaurants serving all kinds of dishes. They were serving in small portions which, when shared, allowed us to sample quite a bit of stuff and a crowded venue ensured that we got to chat with all manner of Aussies and expats. The mango and sticky rice at the end was a delicious finale to our time in Sydney...bodes well for our April trip to Thailand!

Sydney, Australia (aka My Kind of Town)

After leaving the cool weather and clean air of Tasmania, we headed back to the big city. Luckily, there was plenty of fresh air and warm (but definitely not hot) temperatures in Sydney as well. We spent a fair amount of time sitting in scenic areas, drinking beers, and people-watching but did a whole lot more walking here too.

We stayed in an area of Sydney called The Rocks at the Lord Nelson Pub and Brewery. It's the oldest pub in Sydney (yes, they brew their own beers too) and there's also a hotel attached. Some rooms have adjoining bathrooms but since we're cheap and Sydney is expensive, we opted for the traditional inn-style of a shared hallway bathroom. Luckily, it wasn't a problem to share and the hotel kept things very clean. The rooms were small but well decorated and we really loved the atmosphere (plus the stumbling distance to the room after a pint or two).


The first two days after we'd hit Sydney, we were lucky enough to catch a street fair in The Rocks, right on the street leading to the water. We came accross it the same way we come across most things while on vacation - by wandering around. The first day, the market was oriented to cheese and locally made foods (think olive oils and jams rather than veggies) with a smattering of arts & crafts and clothing. The second day (I think it was a Saturday), the market had quadrupled in size and had almost everything you could possibly want. We continued our tradition of buying a Christmas ornament to mark this new country and admired how the stalls were covered with a roofing reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House.


Speaking of the Opera House, we decided to stop by the box office on our first full day and were pleased to discover that there were reasonably priced seats left to the theatrical production of "Our Town". We went back later in the evening and though it wasn't in the grand auditorium, the production was great and it was really need to be there and have our intermission cocktails on the deck, admiring the lights of the Opera House. Mark got another great view of the Opera House a couple days later when he completed the Sydney Bridge Climb! On an escorted tour, he strapped in and climbed to the top. I joined him later to take the steps to the top of the turrets along the side of the bridge (can you see it in the picture below?) and since even the views there were great, I know that what he saw was amazing.


A friend from my wild Paris days left Paris shortly after me to return to her native Australia. Six years later (my, how time flies) she's married with an adorable baby. We were lucky enough to meet up in her 'hood of Manly Beach. We sat in a cafe, played with baby Poppy, took a walk along the shore, and caught up. At nap time, Mark and I explored the rest of Manly (including yet another street fair) and wished that we'd had more time to surf (or in my case, learn to surf).

Our visit to Manly only made us want to spend more time on the beach so we hopped on a bus from Circular Quay to the famous Bondi Beach the next day. The sky was blue and sun shining so it was nice to take off our shoes, roll up our pants, and stroll in the sand. We saw a group of kids running off to surf school with their boards and sat for a couple hours just talking and taking in the waves. Put Sydney on my "dream assignment" list for the future.

Sunday Funday in Dupont Circle

Squash and beans at the Dupont Circle Farmer's Market

Crabcake Eggs Benedict from Circa

Greek Road Trip

After our brief stay in Athens, we joined our friends on a weekend trip to Nafplio, a seaside town on the Peloponnese peninsula of Greece.

We drove from Athens (and back again), each time taking a different route that showed us the historic sights of Greece. Our first stop on Saturday morning was the Corinth Canal. A technological achievement of its time, the canal was built in 1893 to link the gulf of Corinth to the Saronic gulf of the Aegean Sea. While now it's mainly used for tourist ships, it originally saved 400 kilometers off the journey of trade ships. But to us, it was a cool sight. The blue was vivid and the bridge just rickety enough to make a fraidy-cat like me hold my breath.

Our next stop was the Theater at Epidaurus. The acoustics here are noted for being perfect. From the center of the stage, noise is audible even to the highest portion of the theater. Naturally, we tested the theory ourselves and found it to be pretty credible. That's my dear husband standing in the middle of the theater in the photo below. He pulled a coin from his pocket, dropped it on the dirt, and sure enough we could hear it from the top of the rows.

On Sunday morning, we got an earlier start on the trip back to Athens and visited a few more sights, exploring the Mycenaean world. The Treausry of Atreus was our first stop and we were doubly lucky that it was 1) free and 2) completely empty (at least, until our way out). The lintel stone above the doorway weighs over 120 pounds! Can you even imagine how that was lifted and used during the Bronze Age (around 1250BC)?! Mind-boggling. The interior is an underground dome that was richly decorated and served as a tomb.

After exploring the citadel of ancient Mycenae (the photo at the top of this post is from the height of the fort) and taking a cheesy group picture under the Lion's Gate, we hopped back into the car and headed for stadium at Nemea (below). This athletic facility may look like a field of dirt but the flat surface was run by many an athlete and is still used for reenactments these days. Around the corner is the 'changing room' facility where the athletes disrobed (they competed naked) before running into a tunnel that empties to the stadium. The NFL (and many colleges) have picked up on this tradition so clearly athletes have always loved a grand entrance. After a woman snuck in to view as a spectator, all visitors were also expected to disrobe and watch the competition in the nude. Thanks goodness this is an Olympic tradition that hasn't continued.

While on the road, it wasn't all about ancient sites and historic figures. It was, naturally, about wine as well. When we passed a vineyard that our friends were familiar with, we stopped for a brief tastings. Naturally a couple favorites from the Terra Leone vineyards in Greece made it into our suitcases. Thanks goodness we booked our return on Olympic Airlines - EasyJet doesn't allow for free bag checking! It wasn't all about the fancy wines, our friends stopped to get some unmarked bottles of the good (cheap) stuff at a roadside stand. We were highly tempted by the olive oil and amazing-looking citrus for sale but restrained ourselves, knowing it'd probably leak all over our suitcases!


Our last stop before heading direct to the Athens airport was Temple of Zeus at Nemea. The Nemean Games were founded here and were part of the Panhellenic games cycle in ancient Greece. With the blue skies and warm air, it was a perfect bookend to a fabulous long weekend in Greece. We're keeping our fingers crossed to return again someday (we still have quite a few islands to visit!).

My Market Haul

Now that we've passed the 100 day mark for our time in Italy (that is, eighty-something days until our departure), I find myself taking more pictures, shopping more at markets, generally soaking up the Italian vibe. Friday's snow had pretty much melted by Saturday morning, leaving puddles and generally decent weather to make it out to the Bastione della Porta Nuova street market. The weather had kept me away for weeks but I had a hankering for the roasted chicken we buy there and bundled up to make the trip.

I came away with the chicken and all kinds of other goodies. A big bag of the sweetest seedless clementines I've had all season (bought after the vendor insisted that I try them), some prosciutto di parma, asiago cheese, salty green olives, a new rosemary plant, and the tulips I bought to (hopefully) welcome in the spring.

While Kabul may have it's own spectacular markets, I'm going to miss this.


Can anyone help to identify this particular type of tulip? Is it the carnival tulip? Aunt Janice should know....

Lago di Como at Christmas

You already know I love Christmas markets so when the opportunity to go with my family and visit the market on Lake Como, I jumped - especially high on the day after Christmas! We made it to Como right before lunch and enjoyed our meal in a lovely restaurant overlooking the lake. Ate some yummy seafood and fresh pasta but I kept in mind a warning I'd heard before: don't eat seafood from the lake! Apparently, lake pollution is quite high.


With some vino, pasta, and pizza in our bellies, we walked along the lake until we got to Como's main lakeside piazza. The miniature ice-skating rink was one was to stay warm during the cold day but after observing the participants (including the cute kids pushing around penguins), we elected to walk around and check out the merchandise at the mercato. No big surprises, lots of local foods like salami, cheese, and honey. I bought a pot of honey to add to my collection at home. The warm chestnuts were out in full force, helping out those who forgot their gloves.

We made our way out of the market and into the centro storico. When we came to the Duomo, I was pleasantly surprised to see it open! I've so far had the unfortunate luck of not being able to see the inside but had a chance to admire with my parents, sister, and husband this time around. The stained glass windows were remarkable and sculpture/decor evoked the Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance influences that prevailed during the building years.


So when it's Boxing Day and you're walking around outside, getting freezing cold, what do you do to warm up? Chestnuts are a good band-aid but only a nice glass of Glühwein (mulled wine) will beat the cold.

La Fiera Artigianale

Each holiday season, Christmas markets are scattered all around Europe. From Barcelona to Brussels, wooden stalls are set up throughout European piazzas selling kitsch and crafts representative to local culture and...other stuff made in China.


The Fiera Artigianale in Milano is more than just your standard Christmas market. Held at the Milan fairgrounds, the business center is thousands of square feet in size (so big! so much to walk!) there were TONS of nationalities represented. I didn't count the number of stalls but there had to have been well over a thousand.


I went with a visiting friend (well, I went twice. The next weekend, I went back with Mark but these pictures are from the first visit) and we started out in the "world" section. Basically, the fair was divided into four gigantic rooms - World (mostly Africa/Asia with some South America), Europe, Northern Italy, and Southern Italy. So, as I said, we started out in the World. Since my friend has spent a great deal of time in Asia and lived in China a couple years, it was a short visit. This is where Mark and I went back to the next week to buy a beautiful silver mirror (from "Morocco" and pillowcases from "Pakistan").


We perused the offerings of "Europe" including a host of spices and teas (various nationalities), marushka dolls (Russia), polish pottery, and foods from pretty much every nation in Europe. French pastries, Spanish ham, bratwurst and Irish pubs pretty much rounded out the rest of the offerings. Yum.


Italy was our final stop but by this time, we were several hours and at least a couple miles into our visit. I think every small town and province in Italy must've been represented at the fairgrounds. I bought a crema di pistachio (very sweet, perfect for a future cupcake topping) and some cannoli that would end up as our dessert that night. Despite the pre-Christmas timing of the fair, the offerings were weak on actual Christmas paraphernalia. I was in the market for a tree-topper but came home empty handed on that front. Oh well, some of these other fairs will probably do the trick!

Markets of Barcelona

Don't get me wrong - I love living in Italy (most of the time) and I love my neighborhood markets. But. BUT - Spanish markets make Italian ones look like the Safeway near my old apartment on Columbia Pike. Folks, that's not a nice Safeway.


Guidebooks and personal recommendations sent us in the direction of La Boqueria, the common name for Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria. Located off La Rambla, the market had a selection of produce unlike anything I've ever seen - a half dozen types of mushrooms here, four or five types of tomatoes there, the only thing I was left wanting for was a kitchen to cook it all in.


La Boqueria is no slouch in the fish and meat department either. Since at least the 13th century, vendors have taken their goods to this market to sell. It has existed in the form we see now for a little over a hundred years.


We knew to start with that we weren't going for groceries - we were going for immediate gratification. Friends had recommended the market with raves about the tapas bars inside the venue. We were hungry and a bit confused when we first went in so when we saw cooked for, we went for it immediately, thinking that this is what our friends had recommended. We shared a few bites of different sorts of pincho (snacks) like the yummy friend doughy things on a stick above. Our joint knowledge of Catalan is zero so we winged it, buying a bite of whatever looked good. Luckily we didn't get too far into lunch before finding the real tapas joints.


Happy to have held our appetites, we settled down to seats at a bar and orders some patatas bravas and albóndigas with a couple glasses of Estrella beer. Yum. A great start to what ended up being a well-fed, long-walked long weekend.

And to close it all up, we visited the Mercat de Santa Caterina on our final day. Taking in the fresh meats and produce, we were less impressed than at La Boquiera. Walking outside was another story - the multi-colored ceramic roof is bright and curvy. Like the sculptures, statues, and buildings scattered throughout the rest of Barcelona, the imaginative design of the Mercat de Santa Caterina turns an ordinary thing into a work of art.

Home, Sweet Paris (Part 2)

I woke up last Saturday to another sunny blue day in Paris. While the day before had been spent revisiting some of my favorite shops and cafes on the Left Bank, my friend and I decided to explore the Right a little bit.

Since we were staying in the 17eme arrondissement, we headed over to Montmartre and the Sacre Coeur for croissants and coffee. We popped inside the church for a bit but felt shuffled along by the ginormous crowds. There was no room to deviate from the roped off walk but since it was free to get in, it wasn't too much of a loss. The view is best enjoyed from the exterior anyways.


We took a look at some of the art on display nearby but I think the scene itself was more picturesque than any of the artwork.


By the time we made it back to the river, it was midday and the sun was out in full force. We decided to find some shade in the park behind the Notre Dame but got distracted by the cathedral itself. So, why the distraction of this church I've seen and been in a million times? NO SCAFFOLDING! For the first time ever, I got to see the magnificant cathedral in a 360 view without any wire or beams set up in front. The renovation looks spectacular.

My friend needed to find some shoes so we headed over to Chatelet/Les Halles for her shopping needs. En route, we paused near the Pompidou Center to dip our feet in this Contemporary fountain.


Wrapping up our Right Bank day, we had dinner at Havanita, a delicious Cuban restaurant in the Bastille. Wonderful way to wrap up the day spent on my second favorite Parisan riverbank.