Kandy, Sri Lanka

On our first full day in Sri Lanka, we woke early from our hotel in Colombo and hopped in the car towards Kandy and the Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage. A spice garden tour was our very first stop. We walked around the garden and sniffed at plants. Having forgotten to pack bug spray, we gladly purchased the overpriced citronella cream (which smelled quite nice) as the area we were in still had malaria present.

We headed towards the orphanage in time for some elephant-watching before feed time. We were able to get startling up close and personal to the elephants which seemed to vary in age dramatically. A baby elephant had just been born about 10 days prior to our arrival but since it was so young, he/she was still being kept away from the masses. We did see Sama, the three-legged elephant who lost her fourth leg in a land-mine accident, and a couple other toddler elephants.

We went for the feeding session where tourist can pay outrageous sums of money to "feed" the younger elephants. This really only means keeping one hand on a bottle while the staff held the rest (and the elephant). It was crowded, hot, and not particularly earth-shattering so we beat a hasty retreat. Our guide offered us the opportunity to ride elephants (outside of the orphanage) but we'd driven past some of these "vendors" earlier and didn't get the greatest impression of the conditions these animals were kept in.

Instead, we headed straight to lunch - at a restaurant overlooking the river where the elephants went to bath. Now that looked like fun. As we sipped local brew (Lion, very good, served Lagos-style in gigantic bottles) and ate delicious curry, we jealously watched the elephants frolic in the water, splashing themselves and each other.

We continued heading towards Kandy after lunch but made time for an Ayurvedic treatment on the way. A great (and cheap) massage was followed by a sauna. I felt great but in the HOT Sri Lankan temperature, I began to feel a bit ill from the dehydration. We arrived in town in time for a local (Kandyan) dance show. The Uda Rata Natum (the traditional name for the dance) are actually several different dances and we were able to watch a sampling of each. The costumes were elaborate and the music percussion-based but catchy. The best part was a whirling thing that one of the dancers did - he practically went perpendicular to the ground as he whirled in circles.

After the show, the dancers quickly set up for a fire-walking show outside. We had prime standing space and it was pretty amazing to watch. I think I was most nervous when one of the performers swallowed propane. I knew what he'd do with it but it was still a shock to watch. We then headed to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth but more on that will come later...

Sydney, Australia (aka My Kind of Town)

After leaving the cool weather and clean air of Tasmania, we headed back to the big city. Luckily, there was plenty of fresh air and warm (but definitely not hot) temperatures in Sydney as well. We spent a fair amount of time sitting in scenic areas, drinking beers, and people-watching but did a whole lot more walking here too.

We stayed in an area of Sydney called The Rocks at the Lord Nelson Pub and Brewery. It's the oldest pub in Sydney (yes, they brew their own beers too) and there's also a hotel attached. Some rooms have adjoining bathrooms but since we're cheap and Sydney is expensive, we opted for the traditional inn-style of a shared hallway bathroom. Luckily, it wasn't a problem to share and the hotel kept things very clean. The rooms were small but well decorated and we really loved the atmosphere (plus the stumbling distance to the room after a pint or two).


The first two days after we'd hit Sydney, we were lucky enough to catch a street fair in The Rocks, right on the street leading to the water. We came accross it the same way we come across most things while on vacation - by wandering around. The first day, the market was oriented to cheese and locally made foods (think olive oils and jams rather than veggies) with a smattering of arts & crafts and clothing. The second day (I think it was a Saturday), the market had quadrupled in size and had almost everything you could possibly want. We continued our tradition of buying a Christmas ornament to mark this new country and admired how the stalls were covered with a roofing reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House.


Speaking of the Opera House, we decided to stop by the box office on our first full day and were pleased to discover that there were reasonably priced seats left to the theatrical production of "Our Town". We went back later in the evening and though it wasn't in the grand auditorium, the production was great and it was really need to be there and have our intermission cocktails on the deck, admiring the lights of the Opera House. Mark got another great view of the Opera House a couple days later when he completed the Sydney Bridge Climb! On an escorted tour, he strapped in and climbed to the top. I joined him later to take the steps to the top of the turrets along the side of the bridge (can you see it in the picture below?) and since even the views there were great, I know that what he saw was amazing.


A friend from my wild Paris days left Paris shortly after me to return to her native Australia. Six years later (my, how time flies) she's married with an adorable baby. We were lucky enough to meet up in her 'hood of Manly Beach. We sat in a cafe, played with baby Poppy, took a walk along the shore, and caught up. At nap time, Mark and I explored the rest of Manly (including yet another street fair) and wished that we'd had more time to surf (or in my case, learn to surf).

Our visit to Manly only made us want to spend more time on the beach so we hopped on a bus from Circular Quay to the famous Bondi Beach the next day. The sky was blue and sun shining so it was nice to take off our shoes, roll up our pants, and stroll in the sand. We saw a group of kids running off to surf school with their boards and sat for a couple hours just talking and taking in the waves. Put Sydney on my "dream assignment" list for the future.

Turquoise Mountain

Turquoise Mountain is the former Afghan capital from the Middle Ages. The Minerat of Jam stands where the capital once existed and it is believed to have been a major Judeo-Persian trading route in its heyday. Author Rory Stewart visited the remains while walking through Afghanistan and writes about it in his excellent book, 'The Places In Between'.

Turquoise Mountain Foundation was established in 2006 and is an NGO funded largely by charity funds of Prince Charles of Wales. Rory Stewart served on the board until his election to Scottish parliament. Turquoise Mountain is an NGO but also a cultural center and shop. It hosts four schools of arts (including calligraphy, wood-works, gem-cutting and ceramics) and sells the beautiful works of its artisans. Turqoise Mountain hosted the production of 'The Little Prince' and while we didn't arrive early enough to check out the shops, we were able to admire the fruits of labor that were evident in the architecture and building details.

Le Petit Prince...in Dari

We live "inside the wire". While my job will require some travel around Afghanistan, it's likely that my travel in Kabul will be somewhat limited. That's ok. There is a war going on. But, we miss out on learning so much of the culture so a chance to get out of the bubble is always great.

I recently went out with some friends to see a Dari production of Antoine Saint-Exupery's 'The Little Prince'. A courtyard provided the theater and the grass was covered with Afghan rugs and comfortable cushions. The air truly did seem fresher and as we waited for the sun to go down and the production to start, we chatted with those sitting around us (mostly colleagues, as it turned out, though there was a fair mix of locals and expats attending) and watched the kites fly around in the air.

'The Little Prince' was the first book that I ever read in French and I've enjoyed it in both English and Italian since. Though I don't speak a word of Dari (well, I do speak about five words), I felt reasonably confident that I could keep up with the plot and wasn't disappointed. The actors were expressive and full of enthusiasm. With the exception of a couple strange dance interludes, it was true to the original story and makes me want to pull out an old copy and read again (well, if it weren't packed away with the rest of my personal items).

And now here is my secret, a very simple secret; it is only with the heart that one can see rightly, what is essential is invisible to the eye.
The Little Prince

Day 6: Piazza della Signoria, Florence

Yesterday, I shared that we spent our Florentine nights at the Piazza della Signoria, listening to street artists. We spent quite a bit of time during our days there as well. The grand piazza is part of the social and political history of the Florentine Republic and still a civic figure today. The Palazzo Vecchio is the de facto city hall of Florence, the Loggia dei Lanzi houses great Renaissance sculptures, and a replica of the famous David is right there. Let's not forget the fancy cafes and shops (Chanel, among others) that also surround the piazza.


The bell tower atop the Palazzo Vecchio would ring when Florence was threatened (like by the Duke of Milan) and would summon the militia. The real "Bonfire of the Vanities" took place here in 1497, when Girolomo Savonarola burned books and valuables to "teach" fellow Florentines to be less occupied by material possessions. Savonarola's revolution lasted until the follwing year, where he was burned on the stake by his follows in the exact same place as his bonfire.


We enjoyed a late afternoon aperitivo at Rivoire. That orange drink is a spritz Aperol, a cocktail I first had in Trieste last June made of prosecco, a splash of sparkling water, and Aperol. Aperol is a somewhat bitter aperitif made by Campari (much less bitter than Campari though). It's usually topped with a slice orange and is an incredibly refreshing cocktail for a warm weather patio.

Day 12: Music in the Streets of Florence

Both of our weekend nights in Florence were spent walking around outside, listening to street artists. Our favorite was the English-speaker doing lots of Simon and Garfunkel covers near our hotel at the Piazza della Signoria. He stood right between the entry path to the Uffizi and the Palazzo Vecchio. Go ahead and be jealous. Just like the rest of the crowd, we sat among Renaissance sculptures of the Loggia dei Lanzi and faced the copy of the David in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. Our room was so close, we were later lulled to sleep by his finale of "America".

Day 20: Palazzo Isimbardi, Milan

The Palazzo Isimbardi is a Milanese landmark dating back to the 16th century and currently housing many of the administrative offices of the province of Milan. While it's typically a work environment, with reservation you're able to access some parts of the historic grounds and visit the gorgeous garden in the back.

I actually have no idea what ancient figure or goddess this statue is of but with the flowers and the dogwood in the background, it's a definite sign that spring has finally visited Milan.

Athens, Greece

Ah, Greece. Athens is just about the only place in Europe with an older and richer (still-existing) history than Rome. In both cities, the word "archeologist" is practically a dirty word since you can't stick a shovel in the ground without hitting an ancient cup, or arrowhead, or something. We arrived on a Thursday and spent that evening, along with Friday, touring the city with our friend from Dublin. We were set out straight by our Athens-living friends who mapped out our route and briefed us on the history. Thanks to them, we also had some amazing meals (who would've thought a beet and spinach salad would be so delicious) and learned a lot (one friend has his Master's in Greek history).


Thursday evening, after a visit to the Benaki Museum and a general overview of Greek history, we spent some time walking around town. We saw the presidential palace, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and the guards (aka Evzoni) who protect them. The ceremonial unit has quite...um, interestingly...dressed. Thick tights, pom-pommed shoes, and a tasseled cap were the highlights. When they did their ceremonial marching, they made their pom-poms touch in the air.


After a late dinner near our friend's home (well, late only by American standards. Our 9:00 reservation was early by Greek standards and the earliest we'd eat all trip), we walked around a bit more and visited the Hellenic Parliament and original Olympic stadium. Ok, "original" isn't quite the right word considering that the Greek Olympics have been around for thousands of years. However, the Panathinaiko stadium was used in the 1896 Olympics and then again in the 2004 games (as host to the archery competition and finishing grounds for the Marathon).


The next day, we began our trek to the Acropolis by a visit to the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Construction on this site took over 650 years, beginning in the 6th century BC and finishing during the reign of Roman Emperor Hadrian. Years of pillage and neglect took their toll, now there are only 15 of the original 104 columns still standing (one lays on the ground).


The "must-see" of Athens remains the Acropolis. While 'Acropolis' means 'highest city', in my mind, it's basically synonymous with the temples and buildings here in Athens. There's only one way up the 500 foot rock and that's on foot. It looked crazy high before we started but as we hiked, the views provided an excellent distraction. We kept looking forward, behind, and side to side to check out the city and sights. Everything was spectacular, including the warm February weather, and we quickly peeled off our sweaters and jackets. When we made it to the tip-top, we peered down on the Theatre of Dionysus and the expansive city of Athens. Gorgeous. After climbing down, we spent some time at the new Acropolis museum before our hunger finally took over.


We metroed to the Plakas neighborhood from the museum for some Greek souvlaki. It was warm enough to eat outside and our restaurant owner seemed to have a crush on our friend. We walked around the neighborhood and did a bit of shopping. I picked up a pendant of the famous phaistos disc and a silver bracelet of Greek coins. We called it an early birthday/anniversary present! After meeting up with our working friends for a happy hour, we eventually made it to our 10pm reservation for taverna-style music, dinner, and dancing. I was practically sitting on stage but it made for a great view of our friends doing a traditional Greek dance in the middle of the room! Despite not making it home until past 2am, we somehow managed to rise the next day in time for breakfast and the beginnings of our little road-trip...

Steve McCurry Exhibit in Milan

I'm quite belated writing about this but waaaay back in December, I went with a visiting friend to see the Steve McCurry exhibit at the Palazzo della Ragione.

McCurry is most famous for the striking portrait of an Afghan girl that appeared on the cover of a 1985 National Geographic magazine (photo below for your memory). It was an amazing exhibition overall. His photos are crisp and arresting. I only just discovered his blog and would strongly recommend it to anyone interested in photography, travel, Asia, or just plain beautiful images. There's war, pain, and violence but also stillness and joy - amazing.

**all images by Steve McCurry**

All About La Sagrada Família

I've been to a lot of churches. Some for Mass, some just for tourism. La Sagrada Familia is probably the coolest of them all.

Designed by Gaudi, the church has been 'under construction' since 1882.


Why so long? Gaudi had remarked that his 'client was not in a hurry'. His client is God and has all the time in the world.


At the end of it all, there will be 18 tall spires. They will represent the 12 Apostles, 4 Evangelists, the Virgin Mary, and high above them all, Jesus Christ.
One side is called the Nativity.


Another is the Passion.


It's gorgeous from any angle.

Fodor's Photography Contest

Fodor's is having a photography contest called "Show Us Your Italy". With the help of family and friends, I found five photographs that I'm proud enough of to submit to this contest. Now, I know I'm an amateur but there's no harm in trying, right? So, here are the five submissions that I made - thanks to all who helped me pick them out!

Piazza della Scala, Milan


Piazza dei Miracoli, Pisa


Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Milan


View of Vernazza during the hike to Corniglia, Cinque Terre


Beach at Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre

Pisa

On our list of places to see in Italy before we leave, Pisa manages to be both at the top and at the bottom. At the top due to my desire to take the cheesy famous "pushing tower" photo (like the guy in the photo above) but bottom because...well there's not really anything else I'm interested in seeing in Pisa.

I know, I know. It's a big city with 20+ churches and lots of other famous sites. However, this was a pretty easy one to hit as we road-tripped from Tuscany back to Milan. We pushed through the crowds of tourists and dozens of vendors to make our way to the Piazza dei Miracoli, aka Piazza del Duomo.

The piazza is justifiably famous and a UNESCO World Heritage site. At the center is the Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral (above), a medieval church influenced by Byzantine and Muslim architecture. The Baptistery (below) is dedicated to St. John the Baptist and is the largest of its kind in Italy but surprisingly humble on the interior.

As for the Tower itself, my guidebook assures me that it leans far less than it used to. Prior to the restoration work done throughout the 1990s, the tower leaned at a 5.5 degree angle. Now "fixed" to the best of the architect's abilities, it leans a mere 3.99 degrees. In practical turns, it means that the top of the tower is about 13 feet over from where it should usually stand. After taking the requisite cheesy photo ourselves (even Cooper had one), we hit the road to head home.

It's Banned Books Week!

The last week of September is Banned Book Week and to celebrate, I'm pulling out my old, worn-out copy of 'A Wrinkle in Time'. There are other books on there that I should revisit or read for the first time but I'm in the middle of another book and would prefer a shorter break

'A Wrinkle in Time' is an old favorite, a children's book, and will be a quick read. It's the story of Meg Murray, her friend Calvin, and her brother Charles Wallace. The group comes together to rescue Meg and Charles Wallace's father from the IT in the fifth dimension. The book is banned due to the "religious implications" behind the story's take on science, spirituality, and the supernatural.

This list of 50 banned books that everyone should read contains some works of great literature. Maybe those 50 will be my New Year's resolution for 2010! Wikipedia has a more complete list here.

The American Library Association has more information about Banned Books Week on their website here.

Edinburgh Military Tattoo

With a 700 year old castle as the backdrop, the Edinburgh Tattoo takes place each year in the Scottish capital. This year, we were lucky enough to score some tickets from a friend and enjoy the Saturday evening performance. It's called the 'Tattoo' because the word derives from from 'tap toe', a signal that the drum corps would play to close the ale taps and send the soldiers home...i.e. last call for alcohol.


The Tattoo is the second largest festival in Edinburgh, second only to the Fringe festival, and attracts nearly 8000 each night throughout the month of August. In 2009, we saw various Highland performances (pipes, drums, and dance) as well as the UK 1st Royal Tank Regiment, the Tongan Royal Corps of Musicians (immediately above), the Chinese She Huo Dance Troupe (immediately below), and the Swiss Top Secret Drum Corps.


A light show played concurrently with the performers, lighting up the Edinburgh Castle in all kinds of colors and designs. The grand finale brings out all the performers, nearly 1000 of them, for some classic Scottish songs and the lowering of the flags. Right before the fireworks start, the Lone Piper plays one last mournful song.


The fireworks show at the end was spectacular. All of my favorite types shot across the sky and twinkled as they came down. Since this is the U.K. a drizzle of rain helped to finish off the end of the night. However, it was well-worth it for such an entertaining show.