Aperitivo

A little Milanese tradition that we've been enjoying in the past few months is aperitivo. Aperitivo is the Italian version of happy hour except for the fact that there are (usually) no discounts on the drinks. Instead, in typical Italian fashion, there's a free buffet.

In Italy, and really just in Northern Italy, aperitivo occurs on all nights of the week in bars, restaurants, and cafes. I pass several on my way home from work and I've even popped into my morning coffee place much later in the day to see their spread start to appear. Some are small - bread, meats, cheeses, olives. Some are much larger with quite a bit more variety, including pastas and seafood.


In the Brera district, students come out early to pay for a couple full price drinks but get dinner for free. The unwritten rule of aperitivo is that one drink = one pass through the buffet. Despite the small plates, most people seem to be able to fill up on one trip and just get the second drink for fun.


Our favorite aperitivo is at a bar/restaurant near the Arco di Pace in the Parco Sempione. They have a huge outdoor patio with heat lamps in the winter and umbrellas in the summer but we usually sit inside. When we go with some friends here, the treatment is even more impeccable than usual thanks to the table service we receive. We're at the mercy of the kitchen but we've feasted on oysters, smoked salmon crostinis, tender salami, fried olives (see above), and miniature pizzas. They come in waves and don't end until the table is begging for mercy (or the check). Drinks aren't cheap but they bring my prosecco with a strawberry so I stay happy.