La Rinascente

There isn't much to do on Sundays in Italy. Most shops in my neighborhood are closed. However, down in the touristy part of town, there's always something open. La Rinascente is a major Italian department store that, like its American counterparts, sells everything from clothes, to housewares, to Christmas decor.

Since it's only a 20 minute walk from my apartment, I headed downtown during a crisp but sunny Sunday afternoon. I wasn't totally sure of where I was going (all I knew is that it was by the Duomo) but decided that if I kept an eye out for holiday window decor, I should be able to find it. And indeed, that did the trick.


Though I liked the ornament and decoration display down in the lobby, I was disappointed not to see a grander window display. I had to remind myself that I no longer lived in Paris where all the grands magasins compete for your attention with out-of-this-world holidays displays designed by the major fashion houses - Chanel, Chloe, etc. Without feeling too sorry for myself, I carried on.

Since I'd come on a Christmas shopping mission, I can't elaborate too much on what I purchased. While the only things I bought for myself were some lemon-scented candles and a small bottle of truffle oil, I was sorely tempted by the incredible housewares collection. The notoriously quirky Milanese design was present in everything from espresso cups to corkscrews and a big selection of products buy the Italian company Alessi. I vowed to return during the January sales period to invest in a bigger Bialetti Mokapot (similar to espresso but easier to make at home and without the expensive machine) or perhaps even a stovetop cappuccino maker. The Amazon.com links give away the fact that you can easily by these items in the U.S., however, La Rinascente has a MUCH larger display with all different colors and designs that you can't get quite so easily in the States!

Once I tore myself away from the housewares section, I started to head up with the intention of eventually making it to the top floor - home of the department store's foodhall and cafeteria. On my way I stopped by the home furnishing section. Why were they six floors apart? I have no idea. However, this is where all the real Christmas decor was. Ornaments, faux trees, poinsetta, and creche sets took up the most space. However, there was plenty of room for neat travel gear and paperworks (journals, stationary, etc).

So I finally headed upstairs. Where La Rinascente splits from the American department store standard and lines up closer to its European counterparts is in the food hall. Yes, Milan has a food hall. In my personal opinion, it doesn't even come CLOSE to Harrod's in London or the Marks & Spencers in Dublin...but it is pretty sweet. Here, there are counters and small bar/restaurants that are geared to specific cuisines. It's like the food court at the mall but way nicer.


Those milky colored boxes are filled with different kinds of mozzarella - fresh mozzarella di bufala if you're being precise - and are the thesis of the Mozzarella Bar in the food hall. If you sit up at the bar, you can watch the wait staff prepare your chosen mozzarella with fresh vegetables, smoked salmon, sundried tomatos, or many other options.

I hit up the juice bar first for a 'Vitamina C blast' smoothie. Since smoothies aren't really an Italian "thing", it was a nice treat to find some in Milan. I scoped out the chocolate counter and made my way outside to the rooftop deck. I knew the store was right by the Duomo but I was surprised at the lovely view - we were practically adjacent!


Once back inside, I made my way to the shelves of pre-made foods available to take home. There was a good selection of teas, some Jamaican coffee, marmalades, spices, truffled products, pasta, and, of course, always lots of olive oil. What really caught my eye was the sign that said "DISPLAY ONLY" in big English letters. I got closer and noticed that it was artiginally produced and aged balsalmic vinegar from Modena, Italy. I had heard that the "good stuff" gets really expensive, just like wine, and there was no question that this must be the really good stuff! For only 250 euros (that's about $320), you can buy a whopping 2.39oz of balsamic vinegar. Think of that next time you reach for the Safeway variety back home.


On my way out, I noticed the packed sushi bar. With a revolving countertop, it reminded me of the versions I've seen in San Francisco's Chinatown. I can't speak for the quality but the design (like the rest of Milan) was top notch.

Exhausted and with heavy bags by my side, I made my way out. When I stepped outside, I realized that I was on a different side of the store. Luckily for me, this means that I got to see the REAL window displays of La Rinascente! Just like the French, there was a crazy theme (space/astronauts in Milan - I believe it's puppets at the Printemps Paris this year) and all the windows were in full compliance.


So I'm still trying to figure out what these displays have to do with Christmas but am glad that I braved the weekend crowds to head downtown for some shopping.